"PREMIUM WIDE PLANK"^TM PLANK TOPS

These tops have our "Marine Oil Finish"^TM

1. For wide plank and edge grain tops, we supply each top with a bottle of Weiman’s Furniture Cream (an all natural product). Apply the Weiman’s as directed on the bottle once per week for 4 weeks. Buff with a clean, dry cotton cloth (i.e., an old T-shirt). Lemon Pledge will do as well.
2. Reapply Weiman’s once per month. Almost all problems are due to dryness. Your butcher block will look great and last for many years if properly polished.
3. Knife cuts or scratches may be redressed with this polish. (Cuts and scratches usually add to the charm of wood countertops.)
4. Butcher blocks respond to temperature and humidity. Their shape will change somewhat with the seasons. Slight misalignments of boards and cracks may seasonally appear.
5. A patina (or pattern of use) will build on your block. It is the “personality” of your particular countertop. It is to be enjoyed as a unique finish. A certain amount of checking (small cracking at the end grain) is normal for wood countertops. Some board movement at the glue lines is expected. It may occur at one or several board joints. All of these are normal for our wood countertops.
6. If you have an undermounted sink we suggest that you apply linseed or tung oil to the wood rim once per month to prevent water from entering under dings or cuts that may have occurred.

EDGE GRAIN TOPS

1. Use Butcher block dressing oil, or Mineral oil monthly to prevent drying out. (Weekly when new for six weeks.)
2. These tops are sealed and oiled in our shop before shipping to you.

END GRAIN TOPS

1. For end grain chopping blocks, use Butcher Block Dressing Oil each week. Mineral oil will also work.
2. Pour on a liberal amount and let it sink in for 20 minutes. Remove excess with a paper towel and buff.
3. This is very important. These tops will dry out quickly and must be maintained.
4. These tops are sealed and oiled in our shop before shipping to you.

STANDARD WIDE PLANK TOPS

1. Use Butcher block dressing oil or Weiman's Cream monthly
2. Recoat with Waterlox brand wood finish as needed.

HOW TO POLISH OR OIL YOUR WOOD COUNTERTOP

1. Pour a small amount of Weiman’s Furniture Cream or Brooks Custom “Butcher Block Oil” onto a paper towel.
2. Wipe the oil onto the wood countertop leaving a thin layer of cream or oil.
3. Let sit for 15 minutes, then remove the excess with an absorbent paper towel or cotton rag and leave undisturbed overnight.

WARNING: Fire Marshall's Advice

Dispose of all oily rags properly. Rinse oily rags with water until saturated. Place the wet oily rags in a zip lock bag and place them in suitable trash container. Do not allow oily rags to be placed in a dwelling for a prolonged period of time. Do not allow oil or oiled surface to come in contact with heat or a hot surface exceeding 150 degrees Fahrenheit.

Butcher Block Troubleshooting Guide

Occasionally details arise from delivery, installation or use.

These pages may answer some questions or offer help.

You are always welcome to contact us directly.

It often helps to email some digital pictures of a problem as well as some shots of the general site conditions.

Edge Grain
Your top has been finished and sealed with pure Linseed oil. This type of top will loose moisture easily. It needs to be maintained with regular oiling with Linseed or Butcher block dressing oil. These tops are made for cutting ,chopping, and food prep. They will acquire a pattern of use in time.

PROBLEM	DESCRIPTION	CAUSE	TO REPAIR
New tops
Checking, splitting	Slight openings in the edge or end grain, Narrow splits in the top. These tight cracks do not hold filler .	These details are considered to be normal for wood countertops. They move slightly and are a part of the charm of natural wood.	New tops need to acclimate. They continue to change with the seasons as well. Wax or epoxy fillers in cracks and splits are a good temporary fix. Normal movement is a characteristic of healthy wood tops.
Shape deflection	Curving or warping.	Deflection up to 1/4" across a 42" top is acceptable and normal.	New tops need to acclimate. They continue to move and change with the seasons as well. no fix required.
Warping	Top is "cupping" upward at edges or "bowing" upward in the center.	Imbalance of moisture or heat content between top and bottom. Look for heat or moisture source that has not been sealed off at installation.	Reinstall top. Seal off dishwashers, microwaves, hvac ducts, etc. with sheet metal and caulking. Redirect any hi velocity hvac or blowers.
Warping	Top is turning downward at an overhang.	Lack of support at overhang	Install overhang support. Deflection of up to 1/4" across a 42" top is acceptable. Let top acclimate.
Existing tops
Finish	Finish is flaking at sink opening. Wood underneath looks bare and split.	Damage to the original finish is not being dressed with oil to reseal the openings.	Occasional coats of Waterlox Wood Finish to reseal and build up the finish at the sink opening.
Finish	Dark or black area around a faucet	The faucet leaks. Blackness comes from constant wetness.	Reseal and possibly repair the faucet.
Finish	Shiny or dull areas in the finish.	Use of very fine or very course abrasives in local areas..	Scour the entire top evenly with a fine Scotchbrite pad. Apply a coat of dressing oil.
Finish	Staining, spotting, water rings, food stains, etc.	Excessive scrubbing or washing over time, without oiling or waxing have removed the finish.	Buy some raw Linseed oil and apply several coats as directed.
Splitting, End checking	Excessive open splitting at glue joints. Large open checks at board ends.	Possible heat or humidity source. Possible manufacturing defect	Contact us. Send sharp email photos of the problem and the surrounding areas.
Warping	Top cupping or bowing	Imbalance of moisture or heat content between top and bottom. Look for heat source that has not been sealed off at installation. Lack of support at overhang	Apply oil liberally to concave side. If not corrected within 2 weeks, tape plastic (i.e. plastic liners, dry cleaning wrap, etc.) to the convex side and oil the reverse side every day. Top will adjust to new humidity and correct itself. Install corbels or support at overhang.
"Board Creep"	At one or more glue line joints. Boards differ in height or position.	Natural movement in time. Often mistaken for splitting.	This is a feature of wood tops due to natural movement and expansion. It is not a problem.
Rail Expansion	One rail raised above balance of top	Raised rail expanding at faster rate than other	Continue oiling or waxing as instructed for regular maintenance. Top will adjust to new humidity and correct itself.
Damage	Nicks, gouges, dents, etc.	External environment	Such damage may accumulate over time. These may be minimized by using our "finish restorer".
Mineral Streaks	Dark streak in the wood	Natural discoloring of the wood due to mineral deposits	No repair needed – adds to individuality of your Butcher Block!
Residue on counter surface	Gummy residue on the counter top Areas of flat finish or lack of gloss.	Build up of excess oil Not removing excess oil after application.	This residue can be removed with mineral spirits or naphtha. Wet a piece of paper towel with mineral spirits, or naphtha. Apply liberally to the entire top. wait for the oils to start dissolving. If necessary scrub lightly with a 3M scotchbrite pad. Wipe the counter top down to absorb any dissolved or excess oil. Finish the process by wiping with a dry absorbent paper towel until the top is dry. Wait one day then re-oil or wax and buff (wipe down) the top with a paper towel. Leave untouched overnight.

End Grain Chopping Block
Your top has been finished and sealed with pure Linseed oil. This type of top will loose and gain moisture easily. It needs to be maintained with regular oiling with Linseed or Butcher block dressing oil. These tops are made for cutting ,chopping, and food prep. They will acquire a pattern of use in time.

PROBLEM	DESCRIPTION	CAUSE	TO REPAIR
New tops
Checking, splitting	Slight openings in the edge or end grain, Narrow splits in the top. These details do not hold filler .	These details are considered to be normal for wood countertops. They move slightly and are a part of the charm of natural wood.	New tops need to acclimate. They continue to change with the seasons as well. Wax or epoxy fillers in cracks and splits are a good temporary fix. Normal movement is a characteristic of healthy wood tops.
Shape deflection	Curving or warping.	Deflection up to 1/4" across a 42" top is acceptable and normal.	New tops need to acclimate. They continue to move and change with the seasons as well. no fix required.
Warping	Top is "cupping" upward at edges or "bowing" upward in the center.	Imbalance of moisture or heat content between top and bottom. Look for heat or moisture source that has not been sealed off at installation.	Reinstall top. Seal off dishwashers, microwaves, hvac ducts, etc. with sheet metal and caulking. Redirect any hi velocity hvac or blowers.
Warping	Top is turning downward at an overhang.	Lack of support at overhang. End Grain tops need even support.	Install overhang support. Deflection of up to 1/4" across a 42" top is acceptable. Let top acclimate.
Existing tops
Finish	Dark or black area around a faucet	The faucet leaks. Blackness comes from constant wetness.	Reseal and possibly repair the faucet.
Finish	Shiny or dull areas in the finish.	Use of very fine or very course abrasives in local areas..	Scour the entire top evenly with a fine Scotchbrite pad. Apply a coat of dressing oil.
Finish	Staining, spotting, water rings, food stains, etc.	Excessive scrubbing or washing over time, without oiling or waxing have removed the finish.	Buy some raw Linseed oil and apply several coats as directed.
Splitting, End checking	Excessive open splitting at glue joints. Large open checks at board ends.	Possible heat or humidity source. Possible manufacturing defect	Contact us. Send sharp email photos of the problem and the surrounding areas.
Warping	Top cupping or bowing	Imbalance of moisture or heat content between top and bottom. Look for heat source that has not been sealed off at installation. Lack of support at overhang	Apply oil liberally to concave side. If not corrected within 2 weeks, tape plastic (i.e. plastic liners, dry cleaning wrap, etc.) to the convex side and oil the reverse side every day. Top will adjust to new humidity and correct itself. Install corbels or support at overhang.
"Board Creep"	At one or more glue line joints. Boards differ in height or position.	Natural movement in time. Often mistaken for splitting.	This is a feature of wood tops due to natural movement and expansion. It is not a problem.
Rail Expansion	One rail raised above balance of top	Raised rail expanding at faster rate than other	Continue oiling or waxing as instructed for regular maintenance. Top will adjust to new humidity and correct itself.
Damage	Nicks, gouges, dents, etc.	External environment	Such damage may accumulate over time. These may be minimized by using our "finish restorer".
Mineral Streaks	Dark streak in the wood	Natural discoloring of the wood due to mineral deposits	No repair needed – adds to individuality of your Butcher Block!
Residue on counter surface	Gummy residue on the counter top Areas of flat finish or lack of gloss.	Build up of excess oil Not removing excess oil after application.	This residue can be removed with mineral spirits or naphtha. Wet a piece of paper towel with mineral spirits, or naphtha. Apply liberally to the entire top. wait for the oils to start dissolving. If necessary scrub lightly with a 3M scotchbrite pad. Wipe the counter top down to absorb any dissolved or excess oil. Finish the process by wiping with a dry absorbent paper towel until the top is dry. Wait one day then re-oil or wax and buff (wipe down) the top with a paper towel. Leave untouched overnight.